My First Camino

Liz Vivian, sitting on the bridge near Larasoaña on Day 4 of walking the Camino de Santiago

The first time I heard about the Camino, I knew I’d walk it someday.

I first heard about the Camino de Santiago from my husband, Graham, on our first date. We were sharing our favorite travel stories over a mezze platter, and Graham told me about walking 500 miles across Spain to celebrate his college graduation. I was like, I love walking, I love adventures, I love challenges, how do I not know about this?! Hearing his Camino stories and how much the experience still meant to him years later, I knew I’d walk the Camino someday. …And I knew I liked Graham.

Fast forward 13 years to 2019. I had just stepped down from a big job feeling exhausted, angry, misunderstood and sorry for myself. It was like this big “no” had volcanoed out of me and I knew I needed to put together life in a new way. Serendipitously, my mother-in-law had invited us to join her on Camino that spring, and as soon as I resigned, Graham said, “We’re sending you to Spain. You have to go walk a Camino.”

On the first day of walking, I trudged up and down the hills by myself, pumping my trek poles, ruminating and full of rage. On the second day of walking, I marched up and down more hills, still tense, still mad. On the third day of walking, I started out the same as the days before, but then these negative thoughts passed and I felt my body unclench. I slowed down to enjoy the fresh air, the forest, the big birds floating above me. After the fourth day of being in the rhythm of walking and resting, I found myself again, a little lighter. I remember feeling like, oh, there I am, there’s the real me.

Walking the Camino became my happy place.

In those first few days of walking, I had also fallen in love with being on Camino. I loved the meditative walking and chatting with myself. I loved being outside all day and the peaceful rhythm of Camino life. I loved traveling by foot through farms and vineyards and little towns. I loved meeting other pilgrims, sharing tips and stories on the trail or over a communal dinner. I even loved carrying my pack, washing my undies, and walking when it rained.

When my twelve days of walking was over, I knew this experience had changed my life. It brought me back to myself and gave me time and space to listen for what’s next.

And I couldn’t wait to do it again.